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Scaletta Ristorante's underground dining area is something that you won't find elsewhere in Manhattan: a dead ringer for a Holiday Inn reception room. Sitting at one of twenty or so round tables, and surrounded by wall-to-wall carpeting, a dropped ceiling, and piped-in piano music, you could easily be at a quiet suburban Bar Mitzvah. Or, based on the average age of diners, at a fiftieth anniversary party. The food is better than you'd encounter at Aunt Tildie and Uncle Seymour's big bash, though. Italian dishes like mushroom risotto and veal scaloppine are solid, if unexceptional, and the deserts from the rolling dessert cart beat its suburban catering-hall cousin. That could be why Scaletta's attracts not only those in search of a safe meal, but also those in search of a place to host an actual Bar Mitzvah or anniversary party. — Lauren Aaronson

Sauteed mushrooms and artichokes, $10; lasagne bolognese, $18