Profile

Scalinatella makes you feel as if you’ve walked into a different world of cozy Italian hospitality. When the waiter asks if you want to start with prosciutto and cheese, say yes. While sipping wine from the huge list and nibbling some of the tangiest Parmigiano found in New York, listen closely to the specials recitation—this virtuoso performance is part of the experience you’ll be paying dearly for later. It’s really hard to go wrong, whether you order off the menu (try the Dover sole) or pick one of the slightly more daring specials. Pastas like linguine alle vongole remind you why you started liking this dish in the first place. — Laura Brounstein

Linguine alle vongole, $28.50; Dover sole, $68.50