Schaller’s Stube

Papaya King, the cheap eater’s home away from home, is within tube-steak-tossing distance of this takeout-window-and-barroom spinoff of the Schaller & Weber butcher shop. But Schaller’s Stube’s pricier product is more along the specialty-­sausage lines of Hallo Berlin, and well worth the extra shekels. The classic bratwurst with a swipe of mustard is terrific, but our favorite is the Swiss-cheesed, sauerkrauted, and secret-sauced all-beef frankfurter called a Steuben’s Reuben, a combination that could change even the most conscientious hot-dog purist’s views regarding creative toppings. It comes on a buttery brioche bun and gets smooshed on a panini press, which seems like a terrible thing to do to a hot dog until you try it.