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This comfortable bistro in Chelsea serves a modernized haute version of classic Northern Italian cuisine, and combines the sensibility of a sleekly designed and executed New York dining experience with an understated neighborliness. While part of a larger chain throughout the city, the restaurant feels distinct, without the cookie-cutter assembly line vibe that weighs down other such operations. The dining room is a warm yellow and the walls have backlit insets displaying the variety of wines and specialty liquors available. Sette's home-made pastas are a big draw, with tortellini, pappardelle, ravioli, gnocchi, and others prepared fresh daily on site. Generous portions are complemented by original takes on classic sauces, like the creamless raspberry vodka topper and the Bolognese and bechamel meat sauce. Fish and meat entrees, served in artful arrangements that highlight color and shape, combine rustic Tuscan fare like wild mushrooms and risotto with refined seasonings and marinades. While many certainly take advantage of Sette's sense of subtle luxuriousness to impress a date, the casual atmosphere also draws a nice mix of locals simply out for an evening dinner that won't break the bank. — David S. Hirschman

Mon.–Fri., noon–6 p.m., three courses for $15

Rosemary-crusted shell steak, $26