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Shabu-shabu (literally, "swish-swish"), the Japanese art of cooking thinly-sliced beef and vegetables by dipping them in boiling water, is said to have been created by Genghis Khan in the 13th century as a means of rapidly feeding his hungry hordes. The practice spread throughout China and later to Japan, where it attained near Zen-like simplicity. It reached the Upper East Side in 1979, with the opening of the eponymous Shabu-Shabu 70, now a favorite with neighborhood regulars and staff from the nearby clutch of hospitals. A small butane stove is brought to the table, topped by a pot of soon to be torrid liquid. Then, a platter of paper-thin, semi-frozen slices of rib-eye steak paired with stacks of sliced cabbage, carrots, watercress, shiitake mushrooms, snow peas and onions, is set out. Diners dunk the morsels in the evolving broth and dip them in either a rich sesame/peanut or tangy ponzu sauce, the latter comprised of soy sauce, rice vinegar, and lemon juice. Once the raw ingredients are consumed, chewy udon noodles are tossed in, making a delightful soup. Yes, the restaurant has a solid sushi bar, as well as appealing tempura, sukiyaki, and teriyaki selections, but the smart money swishes. — Michael Anstendig

Shabu-shabu, $23 per person (2 person minimum)