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Do-it-yourself dining for fondue fetishists at this dual-location Japanese raw-meat mecca whose titular signature dish involves placing wafer-thin slices of beef into boiling hot water alongside fresh vegetables, tofu and vermicelli glass noodles. As the beef cooks, the water becomes a broth-like brew, infusing the whole affair with a savory rush of flavors and aromas. Perfect for that awkward first date in which you can't find anything to do with your hands except shred your napkin into oblivion under the table. Shabu-Tatsu is messy fun for a generation of foodies who were denied the interactive delights of the sorely lamented fondue pot, that recently resurrected staple of the bad-taste seventies. For non-adventurous won't-shares, Shabu-Tatsu also features non-interactive fare like Bibim Bop cooked in stoneware and assorted Japanese barbecue dishes. — Andy Bailey

Reservations are accepted only for groups of 4 or more

Shabu-Shabu for two, $33.50; bibim bop, $10.75