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Jackson Heights does not lack for good Thai food. The cultish Sripraphai, the zesty Zabb, the chic Rice Ave., and the popular Arunee are all within one #7 subway stop of Shallot. This pretty storefront competes by virtue of its seriously cheap tabs, its locally rare BYOB policy, and its tranquil ambience: Cantaloupe-colored walls, pillow-laden banquettes, and seashell-disk chandeliers that tinkle musically. Nevertheless, Shallot’s familiar Thai recipes come across as tame. While ingredients are impeccably fresh and presentations attractive, a one-size-fits-all approach seems to hold sway in the kitchen. Save for a lime-brightened spicy-basil seafood soup, which arrives as billed, dishes emerge timidly seasoned even if you beg for “super hot, very spicy Bangkok–style.” Diners who like their Thai chow as mild as Cantonese fare will be happy with Shallot’s output. But those who prefer their papaya salad to pucker and their tofu curry to tingle will have to doctor their dishes with a condiment rack of powdered chili and pickled jalapeños. — Karen Tina Harrison

The kitchen closes at 1:30 a.m. Sun.—Thu. and 2:30 a.m. Fri.—Sat.

Spicy basil seafood soup, $5.75; duck salad, $8; stir-fried rice noodle, $7; shrimp red curry, $8; Thai iced tea, $2.50