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This former Lemongrass Grill outpost by Union Square reopened in fall 2008 with a spiffy new look and a new name. Still, the kitchen clings to some of its Thai roots. Masaman curry and Pad See Yu are among the Thai selections on the menu, which is more pan-Asian than Shanghainese. Anyone with a hankering for lion's head pork meatballs—as common in Shanghai as they are uncommon here—will be disappointed. At least there’s Xiaolong Bao for comfort; the wonderful Shanghai-style steamed dumplings are almost translucent enough to reveal the soup, pork, and crabmeat inside. You can rev things up with shrimp coated in a fiery glaze of chile flakes and sesame seeds. Another intense option comes by way of Malaysia: Ayam Sambal Mango translates to chicken wrapped in leaves and grilled on a stick, resulting in a particular smoky, sweet, and bitter flavor. Even Vietnamese classics get their due. Bo Luc Lae sets off smoking-hot, juicy beef cubes with stir-fried bell peppers and onions. The soaring, neon-lit space handles groups well; there are mod roomy booths, long wooden tables, and a full bar. After you drink up, you can head downstairs for karaoke. — Kate Appleton

Red Hot Shanghai Spicy Shrimp, $15, Sizzling Bo Luc Lae, $15