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In Tokyo, Shinbashi is one of the city’s first and oldest rail stations. It provides a fitting name, then, for this midtown sushi spot—one of New York’s oldest and, like its neighbor, Hatsuhana, one of the first to introduce Japanese cuisine to New Yorkers in the seventies. Tokyo’s Shinbashi was revamped a few years ago; Manhattan’s followed suit after a seven-year closure due to fire. Reopened in a lofty tri-level space, towering ceilings, a curving staircase, and a glass-paned façade lend the place a bright new look that’s trimmed with muted beige and rust tones. Cushy couches in the candlelit basement lounge and contemporary cocktails like yuzu margaritas lure in a new clientele, while onetime regulars retreat to the duplex dining room or the long sushi bar for tried-and-true favorites. They’ll be solidly satisfied with quality sushi and sashimi and well-executed entrées like non-greasy tempura; tangy beef teriyaki; and rich, miso-tinged duck broth swimming with soba noodles. Shinbashi, by the way, literally translates to “new bridge.” Here, the traditional fare connecting with modern surroundings reflects the name’s literal meaning, too. — Kathleen Squires