Profile

In business since the thirties, Egger’s has the un-self-conscious feel and captivatingly cluttered look of a small-town shop with nothing to prove beyond a dedication to its craft; a dying breed even on out-of-the-way Staten Island. The décor is mid-American comfy with hand-drawn thank-you signs from local schools lining the walls, and a functioning Formica counter, behind which the chipper teenage staff mixes determinedly. The homemade ice cream is buttery rich and virtually airless, swirled with flavors like hearty maple walnut, chunky banana, and beater-fresh cake batter, and served in concoctions running the gamut from the traditional (banana split) to the regional (egg cream) to the whimsical (“a milk shake with a scoop riding side saddle”). Glass cases house handmade chocolates and baked goods, and a selection of prepackaged candies, complete with bubblegum cigars, beckons across from the cash register. — Mark Holcomb

Side Car, $4.95; two-scoop sundae, $4.95