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Though the 65,000-bottle wine list is monumental, the food at this Pan-Italian restaurant falls short of the sublime. The cheerily lit dining room feels spacious even when packed, and whimsical paintings of fish and fowl decorate the mustard-colored walls. Owner, head chef, and certified sommelier Giuseppe Bruno rotates the menu every season, with a unifying focus on fresh herbs and vegetables. Dishes may include rabbit braised in white wine, onions, and tomatoes in the hearty style of Ischia or chewy, homemade pappardelle smothered with a thick and tangy veal ragout. While crafted with care, the menu takes few chances and remains in the shadow of the wine list—which has impressive bottlings from Barolo, Barbaresco, Burgundy, and Bordeaux. — Angie Co

Cauliflower puree with black truffles, $18; homemade fusilli with broccoli di rape, shrimp, and fava beans, $22; braised rabbit with wine and herbs, $28; tiramisu, $10