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The first person to greet you at Plus is a bouncer, not a maitre d', a sure sign that preventing a fracas—rather than preparing the food—is the point here. Housed in the cavernous, bi-level warehouse formerly known as Chelsea Billiards (and now known as Slate), this restaurant-rec hall has been gussied up with a DJ booth, humungous plasma-screen TVs and a 54-foot fiber optic bar. Down the center run obligatory banquettes with sheet metal tabletops; the menu's signature item is a 14-inch burger cut up like a pie. With fare better suited to a cut-rate wedding and music loud enough for a stadium, conversation's not really an option so most opt for billiards: Asian-American pool-hounds and nine-to-fivers stand in Dockers-commercial clusters and try not to get stuck behind the eight ball. — Daniel Maurer