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The owners of Snack, Soho's five-table Greek cafe, have expanded to the West Village with this superb, comparatively spacious restaurant. There's room here for a bar, a greater selection of Greek wines, and 52 customers at once. The menu reads Greek but looks and tastes altogether new: the saffron-scented crushed-almond sauce bolstering stuffed grape leaves; the caramelized romaine and dill-scented verjus adorning roasted monkfish; the intense flavors of oven-roasted tomatoes and fresh mint enlivening braised lamb shoulder—all of which are perfectly complemented by the affordable Greek wine list. There’s even a superior souvlaki at brunch, if you’re homesick for Athens—or Astoria.

Try the puffy bourekis (minced lamb in phyllo pastry), the grilled loukaniko (country sausage), or the fine avga me hirino, which, in case you didn't know, consists of two poached eggs served with braised pork and a mess of cranberry beans.

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld's Full Review (10/13/03)

Best of New York Awards

• Best Astoria Alternative (2004)