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If the menu of tartines—open face sandwiches—at this Saks Fifth Avenue café recalls a rustic French bakery, the restaurant's hyper-mod milieu of white, open space dotted by round, white, lacquer tables fashions a starkly divergent setting in which to munch them. But the long, crusty slices topped with very un-French mounds, along with champagne cocktails, successfully tempt and fortify an impromptu clientele. — Alexandra Vallis