Sofreh

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85 Very Good

Fine Persian cooking in a stately townhouse setting.

75 St. Marks Ave., Brooklyn, NY, 11217

646-340-0322

http://www.sofrehnyc.com/

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The lowdown

Persian cuisine is not something you tend to hear much about when nattering, food-obsessed New Yorkers gather together, but at this convivial, stylish townhouse establishment just off Flatbush Avenue, the chef-owner Nasim Alikhani brings this venerable dining culture alive in all sorts of inventive, satisfying ways. Pay attention to the rice (served in steamy, saffron-flavored platters, or in crunchy triangles called “tahdig”) and to the blizzard of communal small-plates dishes (the kofte meatballs, the vegetable dips and spreads), all of which are designed to be consumed in a communal lather with slabs of oval, fresh-baked bread. And pay attention to anything involving the delicious strained yogurt, which Alikhani and her cooks make fresh during the week, and which is served as a drink (the traditional Persian “sharbat”), as a garnish (with lamb shanks and kebabs ), and as a luxurious dessert topped with spoonfuls of sugary marmalade.

Adam Platt

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What you need to know

DrinksFull Bar

Noise LevelCivilized