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Superficially, Sofrito resembles a meatpacking-district club: Ambient hip-hop pulses while the 100-foot bar is backlit by color-changing windows. But there’s a definite barrio vibe here, too. White colonnades are painted with the aphorisms of Spanish Harlem artist James de la Vega, and casual multigenerational groups mix with sleekly dressed couples. Everyone, from abuelas to niños comes for the knockout Puerto Rican menu which features several dishes dashingly presented, and others simply massive: Mofongo al pilon de bistec (savory shredded beef over mashed green plantains), and pernil con arroz y gandules (roasted pork shoulder with pigeon peas and rice) are both big enough to split three ways. Heck, sharing’s not a bad idea, given the tasty dessert empanaditas guyabas—delicate dumplings filled with guava paste-filled and well worth loosening your belt for. — Sarah Gold

The kitchen shuts down one hour before closing time Sun— Thu and two hours before Fri—Sat.

Pernil con arroz y gandules, $23; mofongo al pilon, $17; tostones montaditos, $12; empanaditas guyabas, $5

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