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Outfitted in polished-wood wainscoting, carved masks, vines, and bamboo, this atmospheric spot quickly brings diners from sleek Soho to a rustic Southeast Asian retreat. The menu is just as transporting, with authentically executed Malaysian and Indonesian specialties. No matter which cuisine you choose, it's hard to go wrong. For aromatic Malaysian dishes, you can't go wrong with the grilled salmon served with purple eggplant, yellow pepper, and green curry paste, or the curried chicken with potatoes, green beans, okra, and cashews served on a crispy pancake. Peanut sauce is the mark of Indonesian specialties, from the slightly sweet version slathered on chicken satay to the spicy dressing on the archipelago's national dish, gado-gado, a hot and cool blend of deep-fried tofu chunks and a refreshing slaw of cucumber and jicama. Otak-otak, cigar shaped fish cakes smoothly hinted with coconut then steamed in banana leaves, come with a spicy citrus dipping sauce and are an especially refined treat. There are plenty of options for vegetarians, too, and variety-cravers can opt for the rijstaffel, a sampler served on banana leaf-lined trays. Accompanied with a lychee drink, the experience feels even more like an exotic getaway, which explains why the spot is especially popular for those seeking a laid-back lunchtime escape. — Kathleen Squires

Otak-otak, $7; gado-gado, $7.50; roti kari chicken, $14