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Sicily-born Sal Passaggio ditched a three-year stint as a line cook at One if By Land, Two if By Sea to man his own venture—an old-school pizza joint in clean, modern digs. Locals check out the game on a flat screen HD TV, a mod orange ceiling fixture curves over the serving counter, and a pay-per-minute Internet station sits next to a soda cooler with Boylan’s and Mash sodas. The kitchen slings straightforward Italian takeout dishes that mostly please. The plain slice is supple and satisfying, with generous piles of gooey mozzarella melted over a slightly sweet tomato sauce and a homemade, chewy crust. Italian-style greens include a pile of fresh spinach sautéed in olive oil and sprinkled with handfuls of strong garlic, making a pleasingly sharp-tasting heap of veggies. Tangy sliced olives, basil leaves and fresh mozzarella are stacked over thick, crisped homemade dough for a tasty foccacia. Stick with familiar favorites, though, and avoid the stuffed ragu pizza, a basic, open calzone with greasy ground beef flowing out of burnt crust. — Laurel Fantauzzo

Order eight pizzas, get the ninth one free.

Cheese slice, $2.25; focaccia, $3.25; sautéed spinach, $4

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