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Design-wise, the dining room is soothing and simple: Beige painted walls, copper and black floor tiles, and wooden chairs. White tablecloths add a formal note and a wall of glass slats imbedded with bottles of olive oil provides privacy yet transmits light. The Vietnamese lamb “kebab” is outstanding and cleverly crosses Southeast and Southwest Asian lineages. Ground lamb is seasoned with lemongrass, paprika and cilantro and shaped into mini footballs around sugarcane sticks. The meat patties are moist, nicely charred, and flavorful. Braised duck pappardelle is equally successful; the egg pasta is perfectly firm, the shredded poultry succulent, and Thai basil leaves add a fragrant kick. Crisp English peas and tangy roasted tomatoes provide texture and taste. The dish is melded together with a subtle purée of sunchokes, fennel, and olive oil that is remarkably creamy. — Michael Anstendig

Vietnamese lamb “kebab,” $18; braised duck pappardelle, $26; roasted black cod, $32