Thanks to trendsetting Thai restaurants like Zabb Elee, Uncle Boons, and Pok Pok Ny, the funky, fiery food of Thailand’s northeast Isan region is almost as commonplace as the sweeter, tamer stuff once thought to be the only suitable kind for American baby palates. Somtum Der takes the trend a step further by focusing on the invigorating green-papaya salads known as som tum. There are eight made-to-order variations on the theme, the way there are, say, nine signature salads at Sweetgreen salad bar. Our favorite is the “tum pla too + kao mun” (with mackerel). But don’t neglect the equally hot larbs, or the fiendishly good deep-fried chicken thighs.