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Yaowarat Road, in the heart of Bangkok’s Chinatown, is famous for its nighttime street-food vendors. There, the cooking reflects Thai, Sichuan, and Cantonese influences, utilizing flavorful ingredients like cinnamon, goji berries, and red dates. Sookk’s menu covers mostly conventional Thai territory, but the Yaowarat-inspired dishes are a major draw. The house version of pad Thai substitutes glass vermicelli with broad rice noodles and charred seafood bathed in a sweet tamarind sauce and covered in a delicate egg wrapper. Clay pots hold herb-cinnamon duck with red dates or plump shrimp with ginger and steamed Chinese bacon. Street-cart staples like turnip cakes and mussel crêpes are blended into a single dish here, stir-fried with bean sprouts, egg, and pad Thai sauce. Four different kinds of fish fillets are available, topped with green mango and cashew, traditional basil, lemon ginger, or spicy curries. Even the iced tea is original, with tart lime juice, instead of condensed milk. The narrow interior has been stylishly assembled, with slender exposed bulbs inside filigreed overhead lanterns. The walls are gilded, with color provided by a bank of fabric bumpers above a crimson banquette. A wall of golden bells fills the entry, a harbinger of the good luck Sookk seeks to bestow. — Ethan Wolff

Mussel turnip cake, $14; herb cinnamon duck, $15