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This long-running Queens salumeria stands out from the pack with top-quality Italian provisions. Hero sandwiches lead the way, sporting generous portions and fresh ingredients. Eggplant parmigiana matches meaty, spongy slabs of breaded eggplant with a tangy, spicy red sauce and melted mozzarella. The mozzarella, flavorful and thick and made fresh in-house, also appears in the Caprese sandwich, along with tomatoes, house-roasted red peppers, and olive tapenade dressing. Rosino panino sandwiches drop the tomatoes and add layers of velvety prosciutto cotto. The bread is classic Italian, crusty and chewy, courtesy of nearby Parisi Bros. Bakery. An L-shaped front counter stocks gourmet meats, cheeses, and pre-made salads and entrées. Homemade chicken meatloaf is dense and hearty, brightened by oregano and bits of carrot, pepper, and cabbage. Rice balls are jumbo-sized, a pleasing blend of rice and cheese surrounding ground beef centers. Freezers to the right hold homemade sauces, sausages, and taut-skinned raviolis. Dry pastas, canned goods, olive oils, vinegars, and boxed holiday cakes fill the intervening shelving. There’s no seating available, but much of the Astoria fan base spends enough time here to be on a first-name basis with the friendly counter staff. — Ethan Wolff

Rice ball, $3.50; rosino panino hero, $5.50; eggplant parmigiana hero, $6.50