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Be thankful that gluttonous mobs don't bust down the door of this modest Park Slope trattoria. Lunchtimes are only three-quarters full with white coats and friends, while dinners are for dates making goo-goo eyes over the masterful Penne Fiorentina. And why not? The exposed brick walls covered in early 19th century, immigrant-chic photos, and battered hardwood floors are rustically romantic. The same loving care informs the food: The ever-changing ravioli specials boast a variety of fillings, a past favorite being ricotta and spinach, doused in garlic and oil and splattered with endive-onion-tomato sauté and sharp bits of ricotta salata. Such crumbly yet dignified pairings of creamy and sharp are this joint's genius, and the best desserts echo the throbbing sensation with tastes both sweet and biting, like the crème brûlée with berry sauce. Although second fiddle to its food, Sotto's service is impeccably attentive, polite and well-dressed. The entire waitstaff spouts Italian expressions at random and gracefully un-teaches American pronunciations of words like "ricotta." — Marissa Pareles

Sat.–Sun., 10 a.m.–4 p.m.; $12.95 prix-fixe brunch includes unlimited mimosas, champagne or Bloody Marys.