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There’s more to Japanese cuisine than raw fish. At Etsuko Kizawa’s tiny Lower East Side eatery—opened after 9/11 to bring “good energy” to her block—traditional comfort food is the draw, along with hearty spins on classic recipes. Despite the name, Soy isn’t vegetarian, but it is virtuous; recipes revolve around healthful tofu or soybeans, with meat and fish in the mix. Kizawa’s own creations—veg-filled tofu “treasure sacks,” a protein-loaded “everything burger”—are just as fortifying as classic Japanese “mama’s dishes” like plump, thick-skinned dumplings or beef and potato stew. The mint-green room feels nearly as soothing as the food, with just five tables, mismatched flea-market chairs, and a dining counter strewn with tiny toys. Easy rapport between servers and diners makes Soy an inviting spot to linger; don’t leave without sampling a creamy “I can’t believe it’s soy!” smoothy, which lives up to its billing. If you’re tempted to try tofu techniques at home, Kizawa now offers classes like Soy Cooking for the Clueless. — Michael Kaminer

Veggie gyoza, $4.75; kenchin jiru, $5; spicy tuna & avocado bowl, $8.50; “ganmo” tofu patties, $8.50