Speedy Romeo

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81 Good

Wood-fired pizza and Italian-influenced dishes in a former auto-body shop.

376 Classon Ave., Brooklyn, NY, 11238

718-230-0061

http://speedyromeo.com

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The lowdown

Speedy Romeo is named after one of the owners’ family’s champion race horse; you can see his courtly portrait lording over the wood-burning oven like a patron saint. Housed in a former auto-body shop, the restaurant peddles the Brooklyn industrial-chic look: think exposed brick, oversize fans, and weathered wood, but with a bit more color courtesy of the bright-orange chairs and a light-up “SR” sign that looks straight out of a retro arcade. It’s a nouveau-Brooklyn pizzeria in the order of Roberta’s: wood-fired, neo-Neapolitan pies with a dryer crust and liberal approach to toppings, and a more expansive Italian-influenced New American menu. Starters include a very solid Caesar salad, which comes with a mustardy dressing; meaty octopus is grilled and paired with a crunchy almond romesco, and peppers are stuffed with hot and sweet soppressata. There’s the requisite burger and a more imposing dry-aged rib eye for two, as well as a chicken Parm that’s grilled and topped with bread crumbs instead of coated in it. Unfortunately, it lacks the oomph of the red-sauce classic. The pizzas, though, by and large succeed. The chef serves an ode to his hometown in the St. Louie, topped with that city’s Provel-cheese blend and cut “party style.” Skip the K.C. Royale, which pairs sweet clams with bitter burned kale with unfortunate results. Get the White Album instead, made tres formaggio style with ricotta, provel, and pecorino, plus béchamel and roasted garlic.

Chris Crowley

What you need to know

DrinksBeer and Wine

Noise LevelCivilized