Sun-Thu, 11:30am-10:30pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30am-11:30pm
4, 5, 6, L, N, Q, R, W at 14th St.-Union Sq.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
3rd St. to 23rd St., FDR Dr. to West Side Hwy.
Another branch in a burgeoning Thai chainlet challenges the conventional wisdom that the authenticity of an ethnic restaurant can be measured by its grubbiness (the more worn the Formica, the better the food). The deft kitchen here overcomes a strikingly mod décor, a persistent electro soundtrack, and fancified presentations to turn out well-seasoned, extremely tasty versions of classics like panang beef curry flecked with aromatic lime leaves; soft, wide rice noodles in an addictive black-bean sauce; and a roster of fresh-seafood specials.Recommended Dishes
Warm duck salad, $7; panang beef curry with lime leaves, $11