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Another branch in a burgeoning Thai chainlet challenges the conventional wisdom that the authenticity of an ethnic restaurant can be measured by its grubbiness (the more worn the Formica, the better the food). The deft kitchen here overcomes a strikingly mod décor, a persistent electro soundtrack, and fancified presentations to turn out well-seasoned, extremely tasty versions of classics like soft, wide rice noodles in an addictive black-bean sauce; and a roster of fresh-seafood specials.

Panang beef curry with lime leaves, $10