M, R at 65th St.
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Queens Blvd. to 31st Ave., 78th St. to Woodside Ave.
This venue is closed.
When chef Mina Begum set up shop in Sunnyside, Queens, in 2003, people came from all boroughs to taste her fabulous Bangladeshi home cooking. The place closed, but her fans soon found her behind the stove at a restaurant in the East Village's Curry Row. Now, she's relocated once more, this time to a Woodside storefront, whose dingy decor belies the extraordinary food coming from its tiny kitchen. Despite her migrations, Begum's menu has barely changed. You can still get the grub that made her famous, like peerless vegetable pakora—shredded onions and carrots bound together by a hauntingly sweet batter and fried to an impossibly airy crunch—and achar gosht, chunks of lamb and potatoes coated in a pungent paste made from salty mango pickles and dotted with clumps of sweet frizzled onions. The buzz about the chef has died down on the Internet discussion forums where it was born and spread, so there are plenty of available seats. If lack of business forces her to close again, it'll be a great loss for us all. So what are you waiting for?Recommended Dishes
Shrimp dopeaja, $15.95; dal fry, $8.95; pakora, $4.50; achar gosht, $14.95