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You can be forgiven for assuming a Times Square restaurant with a staff clad in kilts is going to be more theme park than a destination for a decent meal. Golf paraphernalia, team flags, and vintage travel posters back that assumption. There's nothing cheesy about the menu, however: strong on seafood and lamb, St. Andrews wears its Scottish origins lightly. Fresh brook trout is ensconced in a rich, golden sauce infused with Scotch whisky and maple syrup; an otherwise bog-standard roast chicken is slathered with thistle honey, the country's national flower. Other dishes, including the tender baby back ribs, are well executed but not particularly Scottish nor worth going out of your way for. Haggis, that rugged concoction of lamb organ meats, spices, and oatmeal, is worth sampling, if only to say you've done it. Eating this putative delicacy or other milder ones is a motley mix of tourists, suburbanites, and homesick Scots. The long, narrow bar area fills with office workers chowing down on bangers and mash or fish and chips. The main draw, though, is the excellent selection of United Kingdom draft and bottle beers, and single-malt Scotches. After a few Belhaven "Wee Heavy" ales, you may be thinking fondly back on auld Robbie Burns's land yourself. — John Rambow

Three courses, $29.95; Three courses with unlimited wine, $49.95, daily, 4 p.m.—1 a.m.

Entertainment
Celtic Music is every Saturday from 9 p.m.—1 a.m.

Haggis, $9.95; hazelnut-crusted sea scallops, $22.95