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225 Varick St. ,
New York, NY 10014
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Mon-Thu, 11:30am-11pm; Fri-Sat, 11:30am-midnight
1 at Houston St.
$14-$28
American Express, MasterCard, Visa
Accepted/Not Necessary
This venue is closed.
The original Union Square location of this French bistro opened in 1989, nearly a decade before Balthazar and its scores of imitators invaded the city. Its formulaic decor-- mirrors, comfy banquettes, dangling Edison bulbs, and a spacious rounded bar—feels old hat now, but nonetheless translated nicely to Tribeca, where it relocated in 2008. Menu-wise, things start on a good enough note, with salty, lardon-laced frisee dressed with Roquefort, and fresh-tasting lump crabmeat and shrimp cocktail. But salmon is overcooked, moules soggy, and Steak Frites’ namesake dish arrives with chewy, middling-quality meat and floppy fries. Vanilla ice cream-stuffed profiteroles surpass the mains, and area advertising and publishing types still like the bar for after work cocktails.
Live MusicLive music from local artists is featured Thu.—Sat. nights.
Recommended DishesShrimp and crabmeat cocktail, $12; profiteroles, $8.50
Adam Platt picks 2010’s top dining destinations,
including Locanda Verde, Má Pêche, and The Standard Grill.
The best that the city’s restaurants have to offer:
paella, coffee, grilled cheese, ramen, and more.
We live in a city full of small cheap-eats miracles,
including $1 foods, Korean fried chicken, and burgers.