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This venue is closed.

The original Union Square location of this French bistro opened in 1989, nearly a decade before Balthazar and its scores of imitators invaded the city. Its formulaic decor—mirrors, comfy banquettes, dangling Edison bulbs, and a spacious rounded bar—feels old hat now. Menu-wise, things start on a good enough note, with salty, lardon-laced frisee dressed with Roquefort, and fresh-tasting lump crabmeat and shrimp cocktail. But salmon is overcooked, moules soggy, and Steak Frites’ namesake dish arrives with chewy, middling-quality meat and floppy fries. Vanilla ice cream-stuffed profiteroles surpass the mains, and area advertising and publishing types still like the bar for after work cocktails. — Kathleen Squires

Shrimp and crabmeat cocktail, $12; profiteroles, $8.50