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The name is short for "steak," and the restaurant, ominously located down the street from Pastis and across from Buddha Bar, is being touted by its proprietors, for better or worse, as a trendy chophouse for the feminine set. The dining-room walls are partially plastered with faux black leather and lined, here and there, with rows of silver studs. There’s a lounge area in the middle of the room where groups of willowy would-be models sit sipping tall glasses of soda water, texting absently on their cell phones. An odd arrangement of plaster steer horns protrudes above the main bar, and the bartenders on duty there appear to have way too much mousse in their hair. There’s a D.J., of course, and tip-hungry bathroom attendants, and a pricey wine list sheathed in the kind of fake white alligator leather Imelda Marcos used to favor when choosing a new pair of shoes. On this evening, at least, our dinner arrived crisply and on time. Much of it was good, and some of it was very good. — Adam Platt

None of the cocktails costs under $12, and none of those we tried was any good.

Kitchen Hours
The kitchen closes at 11:30 p.m. during the week and at 12:30 a.m. on weekends.

Beets with yogurt, lamb chops, Parmesan-truffle fries, raspberry linzer float.

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• Adam Platt's Full Review (11/6/06)

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