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The name Strictly Roots isn't strictly accurate: While the food here is all vegan, it's far more varied and interesting than plain old tubers. In fact, the dishes are almost as colorful as the Rasta-inspired paint job on the walls and provide a healthy alternative to Harlem's traditional fatty soul food. Offerings vary daily and range from tangy sweet-and-sour tofu to black beans with red peppers to an almost disturbingly meaty fake-chicken curry. Portions are doled out by a friendly server from cafeteria-style warming trays, so arrive early for the freshest fare, or opt for a grilled-to-order veggie burger. A cool natural juice, like the spicy ginger beer, will complement your flavorful and surprisingly hearty grub, and will also help you withstand the lack of air-conditioning. — Lauren Aaronson

Combination plate, $6-$9