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Particularly late at night, with grumbling bellies full of booze, locals really seem to love this place. The popularity of the cheese-free square margarita slice alone proves that the pie makers know their fundamentals. The thin crispy crust snaps about the edge and folds firmly at the center beneath a chunky coating of garlic-infused red sauce. That’s not to say the two-man-team fears toppings. On a pie with fresh mozzarella and tomato wedges, chopped basil is mindfully placed only after the slice has been heated in the oven. For heftier appetites, the foot long Stromboli roll is browned to a crisp and overflowing with melted cheese, green peppers, onions, pepperoni and sausage. The space is smaller than a meat locker, with five stools at a narrow counter overlooking St. Mark’s Place. In the warmer months, three plastic tables appear beneath the awning outside. — Rob Fischer

Fresh mozzarella, tomato and basil pizza, $18; Stromboli roll, $6