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A few things to note before eating at Suki Zuki Sushi. First, they don’t take reservations. (On weekends, plan on sampling from the inspired sake list at the bar before your meal.) Second, it’s dark. (The pretty twig-encased wall sconces and wee table candles makes reading the menu a challenge.) And third, but most importantly, the best dishes on the menu have the least interesting names. Teriyaki chicken salad proves a tangy bowlful of greens, chicken breast, and crunchy Asian noodles tossed in rice vinegar with just the littlest bit of the namesake sauce; a tuna sandwich ends up being a fun interpretation of a spicy tuna roll with layers of bright-pink fish, tobiko, scallion, and tempura packed between two layers of rice, artfully sliced into neat triangles like a lunchbox treat. Finally, even though the Hamptons crowd thins come cool weather, Suki Zuki keeps its dim lights burning all year round. — Amy Zavatto

Teriyaki chicken salad, $9; Suki Zuki roll, $15; tuna sandwich, $11; fried oyster roll, $10