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Before Josh DeChellis left the French-Japanese kitchen here, which established him as one of the city’s star chefs, he and the restaurant’s Japanese-pop-star owner installed a sushi bar, helmed by Tokyo-trained Toshio Oguma. In the wake of DeChellis’s departure, the fusion fare can still be stellar—tender Peking-duck-stuffed gyoza are brightened by a light brandy-spiked sauce—or so-so, as with plump scallops in bitter yuzu paste or delicate striped bass overpowered by gluey porridge. But now, the sushi is stand out: Young couples and groups of suits who lounge under the unflattering nightclub lighting in pillow-strewn rattan booths pair über-fresh though familiar yellowtail and toro preparations with orders of Spanish mackerel and Beau Soleil oyster sushi. Chef Oguma also rolls soy-marinated Edo-Mae-E style fish that he says is based on ancient methods of vinegar-based preservation. What’s so special? Bites have barely perceptible extra flavor, but a revelatory texture, thanks to sliced fish near-bursting with moisture. — Alexandra Vallis

$65, $80, $100, and $120 chef tasting menus are available.

Shrimp shumai, $6

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New York Magazine Reviews

• Adam Platt's Full Review (12/1/03)

Best of New York Awards

• Best Asian Fusion (2004)

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