The trio of stacked, saucerlike malted pancakes — doused with liquefied maple-hazelnut praline, crowned with a pat of brown butter — are the de facto showstoppers, the house’s certified Instagram star. For anyone who’s ever been burned by abysmal brunch, which is everyone, the good news is that these are very good pancakes. The better news is chef Jaime Young’s dinner menu. There are gougères with grated black truffle and a drift of white cheddar, and a rib eye with koji brown butter and black-garlic jam. It’s all stuff cooks might cook for other cooks. Even the leaves in salads come from prestige lettuces, what’s served at status restaurants, but no one brags about the farmer or smirks through tableside patter. It’s just assumed that because the back of the house finds it delicious, you will, too.