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There's nothing subtle about this Peruvian restaurant-takeout spot. Look no further than the menu's surreal logo: a scowling, disturbingly buff bird stripping off its superhero costume. Apropos of the mascot, barbecue chicken is the restaurant's unbeatable entrée: The half-order of spice-rubbed is appealingly paired with sweet fried bananas. Yet ceviche also makes a strong showing, with a generous portion of not-too-tart fresh fish complemented by marinated red onions and corn nuts. If this tiny, stock-room-turned-dining-room has a weak spot, it's the visuals. The few wall tapestries can't distract you from the leaky ceiling. A bottle  of thirst-busting, berry-red Chica Morada might. — Justin Hartung