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As the sun sets on weekdays, dinner rolls into town on the Upper West Side. Teetering stacks of corn tortillas are unwrapped, gas grills fired up, and the Super Tacos “Sobre Ruedas” (“On Wheels”) truck at 97th and Amsterdam slides open its windows for business. The tacos are a study in simplicity: Grilled meats are heaped onto two corn tortillas, and sprinkled with chopped onions and cilantro. Eating them is simple too: The warm, foldable tacos are wolfed down at the dented, stainless steel bar that’s lit by a buzzing fluorescent light. The condiments sit in battered plastic tubs: Spicy red sauce and green sauce, limes, and sliced radishes—their neutral crunch perfect for cleansing the palate between bites. The roast pork and barbacoa chicken tacos are the runaway winners, tender and juicy; also robust are the supple slivers of boiled tongue. Among the indigenous platos are nopales, roasted prickly pear leaves that lend a mucilaginous tang to pan-fried steak. The lifeblood of street vendors is positive word-of-mouth and foot traffic, both of which this 2007 Vendy Award nominee, which sits paces from the subway, gets plenty of. “Every time the train pulls in, we’ve got customers,” says manager Isidro with a grin. — AnneLise Sorensen

Taco carnitas, $3; Taco barbacoa de pollo, $3; Taco de lengua, $3