L at Bedford Ave.
Broadway to Greenpoint Ave., Manhattan Ave. to Kent Ave.
Formerly known as Hurricane Hopeful/Carmaya, this minimalist space serves decent, if unspectacular seafood and Italian. Chowders, such as a traditional clam and a spicy Bahamian monkfish, anchor the menu while fried clams, mahimahi burgers and a whole fish of the day reveal a certain amount of ambition. The lobster roll is clam-shack simplicity: tender hunks of meat with just enough mayo to hold everything together. Among the old-world selections, a lobster pappardelle is as toothsome and rich as any nonna's, but a more distinctive Italian accent comes from the deconstructed, dunkable tiramisu, proof that owner Maya Pizzati hasn't gone Gidget quite yet. Used boards (some for sale) hang above the wax-cloth-covered tables, and the sand-filled garden is a perfect spot to quaff a mojito.Recommended Dishes
Lobster roll, $16; pappardelle with lobster, $16; New England clam chowder, $6