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Don't let the décor fool you. The cushy black chairs, dark lacquered wood tables, and wall fixtures that emit a soft gold glow make this place feel chic, but in truth it’s a wonderfully unpretentious neighborhood joint. Most of the trappings are more in line with this reality—the tiny sushi bar near the rear, the menu of undistinguished but perfectly satisfying little dishes. Occasional bouts of ambition, such as yellowtail tartare dressed in ginger-soy vinaigrette and miso-glazed black cod, are balanced by plenty of Japanese staples. A pile of cold soba noodles with tangy dipping sauce is as good for summer outdoor-dining as steaming nabeyaki udon, packed with slippery noodles and seafood, is for the cold weather. Eggplant sports an addictive super-sweet sauce, and the sushi rolls, made with very fresh fish, get a little weird but never too much so—and never too expensive either. If only every corner Japanese restaurant were like Sushi D. — JJ Goode

Eggplant with spicy sauce, $5; zaru soba, $11; D roll, $6.50