Sushi Ginza Onodera

For those who are put off by the exorbitant dinner prices at the Fifth Avenue outlet of this grand, Tokyo expense-account establishment, there are pared-down 10-, 13-, and 15-piece sushi options available at much less than the grandest $400 omakase option. Another real bargain — relatively speaking — is the $70 futomaki to go, a skinny kind of burrito packing seawater eel, tiger prawn, cucumber, egg omelette, pickled burdock root, shiitake mushrooms, sansho pepper, sesame, and kanpyo (strips of dried-then-rehydrated Japanese calabash). The ingredients are individually slow-cooked, cooled to room temperature, then rolled together as a kind of mobile crockpot popular with white-collar Japanese workers because they are best eaten hours later, or even the next day. Desserts are artful masterpieces; devouring them is good practice for realizing you’ll have to leave the place soon. So stay and peruse the cocktail lists, including a Suntory highball and a sake-twist Negroni. The drinks were recently developed by a former sommelier from — where else? — Masa.