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At some point in time, sushi morphed into spectacle, with celebrity chefs, extravagant ingredients, and slick interiors just like movie sets. Sushi West harkens back to an era when raw fish was exotic enough to intrigue New Yorkers without all the trappings. Here, the décor and the cuisine are similarly insulated from fashion: The small dining room’s orange-painted walls and dark-wood paneling are decorated with Japanese prints and contemporary photos; the menu favors traditional dishes like shrimp tempura, chicken teriyaki, and beef sukiyaki. The draw, however, remains sushi—fresh and competently prepared. Those seeking high-art renditions of the California roll should take themselves somewhere else. — Michael Anstendig

Manhattan roll, $9; sushi and sashimi combination for one, $17