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Don't be fooled by the size of this simple space with more seats at the sushi bar than at the plain, dark-wood tables. It may not look busy at first glance but takeout and delivery keep the two sushi chefs in constant, careful motion. Sushi Yama is the culinary equivalent of the clown car at Ringling Brothers: From one tiny kitchen springs nearly 200 menu options, and that's for dinner alone. Pristinely prepared, traditional sushi and innovative, house-invented variations, this place has got them both: Well-executed maki rolls and 25 in-house specials such as the White House, a meltingly delicate combination of asparagus, salmon, masago and "pink seaweed" (i.e., thin sheets of radish-dyed, pressed tofu). Adhering to a theory of exponential riches, Bento dinner boxes take one of four staples (chicken, beef, tofu or seafood) and then allow you to choose one of four teriyakis (airy tempura, katsu, negimaki, yakitori) before adding soup, shrimp gyoza, a California roll, salad, and rice. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

The bargain-priced lunch specials (20 choices, with 20 variations) come with dumplings and a choice of soup or salad.

Spicy miso soup, $3; zaru soba, $7; white house roll, $11; beef negimaki 'bento' box, $12