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As its name suggests, this clean and uncluttered Chinese restaurant in Flushing, Queens prides itself on simple, boldfaced flavors. Sweetness reigns on the latter half of the staggeringly long (and gloriously cheap) menu, where dozens of tapioca pearl fruit shakes and elaborately prepared dessert soups, known as spirit-balancing tong shui, reside. With a long, open kitchen overlooking a casually sterile dining room, the cafe offers a veritable Sears catalog of dim sums, Hong Kong street snacks, congees, exemplary noodle plates and desserts both straightforward (strawberry ice cream with tapioca pearls) and ornate (snow jello and lotus seeds with almond juice tong shui). Family-style plates of doughy scallion pancakes and steamed spare rib poppers make for festive meal starters. Entrees like the lo-mein noodles bathing with watercress dumplings in a pool of creamy broth may have less sex appeal than, say, the broiled frog congee or deep fried pork intestines, but they’re delectable and will see a lot more cycles on the lazy Susan. — Jon Steinberg

Sweet-n-Tart's tong shui "dessert soups" are based on Chinese medicinal brews which claim to treat ailments from bad dreams to thinning hair to dangerously "trapped wind."

Watercress dumpling La-mein, $6.75; coconut milk with mango tapioca tong shui, $2.85