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This venue is closed.
Since migrating from Fort Lee in the fall of 2009, chef Wei Lu’s menu has given Upper East Siders their fix of competent Szechuan standards like chunky orange beef and moo shu expertly swaddled tableside. There are also a number of concoctions utilizing quirky, unexpected ingredients: bacon, pine nuts, pesto, apples, and asparagus bisque make appearances in stir-frys and soups or lavished on seafood. A portion of noodles is dressed in pesto and, with razor clams for a tail, is fashioned in the likeness of a showy peacock. Not as much to look at is a plate of camphor and tea smoked duck, but the tender, fatty, skin-on segments have a distinct smoldering flavor. When stuck into an accompanying wrinkly steamed bun, you have a delicious if oddly shaped sandwich. The double-cooked fresh bacon arrives in a coronary-inducing heap, seasoned with scallion and capsicum peppers. It’s not possible to eat more than a few tasty strips, but this Asian treatment of breakfast meat might just be crazy enough to work.
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