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This Midwood kebab house has been a destination for Turkish specialties since the eighties. Bare, off-white walls, punishing fluorescent lighting, and ragged, gray carpet don’t detract from the delicacies that come out of the kitchen at a steady clip. Eastern Bloc nationals sit shoulder-to-shoulder with Latinos, Italians, and troops of down-and-out students for generous meze that arrive within seconds of ordering. Stellar marinated starters like tangy segments of artichoke hearts and floppy leeks are steeped all day in a smooth, potent blend of olive oil and lemon juice. Pan-fried cubes of calf's liver are seared crisp and dense with flavor. Sturdy chicken and lamb kebabs sustain the organ-meat-averse as does the house special: fresh-baked pide — wide, thin discs of crunchy bread — layered with hefty helpings of ground lamb, fresh herbs, tomatoes, and garlic. — Laurel A. Fantauzzo

Artichokes, $6.75; leeks, $5.25; pan-fried calf’s-liver cubes, $8; lahmacun pide, $10.75