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While the owner and crew at this tiny, immaculate spot hail from Puebla in Central Mexico, the food has a generic appeal. Lukewarm tacos, huaraches, and quesadillas come heavy on shredded lettuce and runny sour cream, and light on seasonings and proteins. Taco Santana shines in the daily specials, prepared at whim. Ask what’s cooking and you might get rewarded with spicy pork adobo, incendiary tripe soup, or chicken chunks in rich tomato sauce. If you order from the menu, stick with bulging burritos or a heaping plate of nachos loaded with cheese and meat. Enjoy them at the counter or one of just three jammed-together tables, along with neighbors raptly watching movies and soap operas. Their reverie is punctuated by outbursts from an unpredictable jukebox and the rumble of the J and M tracks overhead. The only storefront on a spartan block, Santana also draws a steady flow of sulky-looking Williamsburg kids whose skinny jeans belie the number of tacos they can consume. At prices like this, it’s easy to understand why they stuff themselves. — Michael Kaminer

Burrito pollo, $6.50; nachos simple, $4; sopes con carne, $3

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