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Vicente Fernández ranchera music blasting out of the jukebox. An image of the Virgin of Guadelupe on the wall. A couple of chile-shaped piñatas dangling from the ceiling. If these trigger a knee-jerk reaction, squelch it before eating here, because the Mexican cooking is genuine and delicious. All sorts fill the tables throughout the day, though you'll likely hear more Spanish than English around you, especially if there's a particularly gripping moment in a soccer match or telenovela showing on the ceiling-mounted TV. The breakfast choices are mainly scrambled egg variations, but beyond those you'll have dozens of pan-Mexican options, from simple chicken, shrimp, or tongue tacos to heaping plates of Veracruz-style seafood—cooked with tomatoes and onions. The mole sauce is outstanding, especially when slathered over plump enchiladas. The warmth of its flavor—earthy roasted chilies tinged with chocolate and cinnamon—toasts the back of your throat. Among comfort foods you'll find pozole, the Michoacán version of pork broth with hominy and cabbage. Even the bottled Coke is from Mexico and is thus extra-sugary. Better yet, order horchata, a slightly sweet rice-water drink flavored with cinammon and almonds. There are a few downsides, like beef that's often too stringy or fatty, but at these low prices all is forgiven. — Jennifer Paull

Enchiladas with mole, $9.25; tamales Oxaqueños, $2; horchata, $2