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Although you can't throw a brick in this town without hitting a falafel shack, that doesn't mean that the Underground Gourmet wasn't happy to stumble upon Taj-Almoulouk, a tiny Middle Eastern nook with ten tables and a rack of hookah pipes at the ready. The menu hews close to tradition with its focus on meze, salads, sandwiches, and kebabs, all fresh and exemplary. The hummus is daintily swirled and dappled with good olive oil; the puck-shaped falafel, made from a combination of fava and chickpeas, is delicately crisp on the outside, soft and creamy within. Most notable, though, are the made-to-order flat breads, including one topped with za'atar, as well as the pliant pita used for sandwiches. Astute chroniclers of pita pedigrees might recognize a doughy similarity to the eminent Moustache mini-chain, and as it turns out two of Taj's owners used to work there. And that beats having another Dunkin Donuts or Starbucks in the neighborhood any day. — Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld

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• Restaurant Openings: Taj-Almoulouk, Café Grumpy, Yoláto (1/15/07)