Profile

This venue is closed.

Taj Mahal, in the middle of Curry Row’s mostly interchangeable Southern Indian restaurants, counts ambiance as its competitive advantage. The dual dining rooms are at street level, instead of low-ceilinged basements, and mirrored walls add a sense of roominess. Inside the wooden ceiling is a concave hollow accommodating crystal chandeliers. Pink napkins and white tablecloths contribute a hint of formality. The food is consistent with the neighborhood’s generally limited standards. Mulligatawny soup comes as a thick orange purée, flavored with flecks of red lentil that complement the subtle lemon in the finish. Tandoori chicken is moist and tender under a red, mildly spiced surface, served sizzling on a metal tray along with slivers of white onion. Shami kebabs—dry meat fritters—stand out among pedestrian samosa and pakora appetizers. Complimentary dal on the side has a heavy garlicky taste and coarse seeds. Low prices keep a non-Desi clientele happy, though. The short list of wine and beer includes, of course, Taj Mahal lager. — Ethan Wolff

Mulligatawny soup, $2.25; shami kebab, $3.50; tandoori chicken, $9.25